Author Archives: SkinSense
Electrical currents have long been a part of the SkinSense anti-aging arsenal. They provide many benefits for all skin types. So let’s discuss the various protocols that we use continuously during our facials with great results.
Ultrasound:
Ultrasound consists of high frequency sound waves that are particularly good at getting rid of waste both on and in the skin. For example, we all love mineral cosmetics but the powders in particular tend to stick in the pores. Some sunscreens do the same thing. Ultrasound ensures that the pores are cleansed thoroughly and that the skin surface is scrupulously clean during treatment which enables later absorption of the anti-oxidants we apply.
Ultrasound also increases blood circulation, stimulates the lymph flow and reduces puffiness. Indulged in too much salt or not getting enough sleep? That tired, puffy look will vanish after an ultrasound facial.
The heat produced on the skin by the ultrasound current is mild and can be very healing for skin that has been burnt or for acne lesions that have left scarring. Not to mention the anti-aging benefits of collagen production.
The notable feature about the ultrasound unit we use is that the bracelet worn during treatment to conduct the current is a form of Galvanism.
The Galvanic current operates by electro-osmosis using negative and positive ions as a method of transport. It helps active ingredients, such as moisturizers and cleansers, do their work. This current is ideal to treat dry and sensitive skin.
High Frequency:
This is an electric current with a topical frequency of 10,000 or more cycles per second; it produces no muscular contractions and does not affect the sensory nerves but is very useful to ensure the skin is completely clean after extraction by killing bacteria and promoting healing.
This blend of electrotherapy ensures great results for a myriad of skin conditions and all three are very relaxing to experience.
We were delighted to see Marion Simms and SkinSense listed as one of model and photographer Stella Berkofsky‘s Favourite Things in the June edition of Allure Magazine!
We are all punishing critics when it comes to our own bodies and appearance, particularly as we age. Remember those days when we could jump out of bed, shower, grab breakfast, slap on some make-up and be on our way to work in thirty minutes? The older we get it seems to take longer and longer to make ourselves look presentable in the morning, so I thought I would share a few tricks that I use and that clients have shared with me to enhance and speed up the process.
1. Early morning mask treatments – when you first get out of bed, splash your face with tepid water and apply both an eye and face mask. (Keep the eye mask in the fridge for extra de-puffing benefits). Then you can go about your normal early morning rituals and be getting a mini facial at the same time. 15 minutes is all it takes. You might even want to dampen your hair and apply a mask if you are planning to wash it.
2. Lash and Brow tinting – tint lashes and brows every month to save using mascara and eyebrow pencils.
3. Have a fast way to deal with hair on the days you have no time to style – hats, hair pieces and hair ties are all great accessories to have on hand. Also having an manageable cut that matches your hair type – straight or curly – saves having to fuss or curl.
4. Select what you are planning to wear the night before including accessories.
5. In a real crunch, shower the night before and even make your breakfast smoothie.
6. Keep make-up simple. Moisturizer, mineral powder with SPF, and lipstick. You can always embellish later in the day.
Like many things in life, being beautiful and confident every day and at any age takes planning.
Living more consciously year round seems to be the theme for 2014. Everything from the food we eat, to the juices we drink, the cars we drive and the clothes we wear have details about what they contain and where they come from. All steps in the right direction.
Certain things never loose their appeal – essential oils and aromatherapy, for example, have always been important to improve ambiance but are becoming more mainstream in a clinical way for treating mental and physical ailments. And now there is a wonderful blend between science, technology, botanical and organic products that spas are in a prime position to offer.
Looking your best this year means getting away from the faux beauty fashions of the past few years and adopting a less complicated and fresh faced approach to personal care. Improved skincare formulas and electrotherapy to combat aging and a greater understanding about the body as a whole, have resulted in this more hands off approach. Even plastic surgery offices seem more focused on updated injectables, more subtle lip injections, fat harvesting and reinjection to soften fine lines and wrinkles rather than turning to more extensive surgery.
This doesn’t mean we can let go or neglect ourselves. We are returning to hippydom!
Exercise is the only area where extremism seems to be in vogue. High-intensity interval training, hot yoga (be warned: intense heat can cause irritation for some skins) and extreme outdoor sports activities have become very popular and when we travel today we often look for destinations that offer spa facilities, exercise options and healthy menus that can boost our health and well-being rather than giving us an opportunity to get off track and over indulge.
Two newer trends that we are looking to introduce at SkinSense this year are topical probiotics to help control acne and strengthen the skin’s natural defense barrier, and a treatment protocol for targeting stubborn pigmentation.
One thing that will never change however, is the need for a skincare routine that hydrates and protects during the day and treats at night. And of course, regular facials. No matter how great all the new products and protocols turn out to be, daily maintenance will always be necessary.
Anti-oxidants can be vitamins, minerals, or proteins (enzymes) that assist in reducing the damage caused by free radical activity.
Free radicals are groups of atoms that come to us through food, chemicals, the environment, radiation and stress. In part, they are a necessary and natural by-product of our bodily functions and metabolism. But when the production of free radicals is beyond the capability of our natural anti-oxidant defenses they can have damaging effects on our body cells and immune systems and can be extremely aging.
Skin is especially vulnerable to damaging free radicals, which can cause wrinkles (cross-linking) sagging and in extreme cases, when over exposure to UV light is involved, cancer.
Here is a list of ways to fight free radical activity:
Make sure your skin care products contain high levels of anti-oxidants and when having spa treatments have your aesthetician include vitamins along with hydrating and anti-aging ingredients that maintain the skin’s general well being.
Eat organic foods that have a high antioxidant level. Include lots of color in you daily food intake of fruits and vegetables – dark green, yellow, red and orange are the best – and eat moderate amounts of nuts and oil. (Extra virgin olive oil, flaxseed and hemp are excellent.) Make sure when you shop, you add carrots, kale, broccoli, avocados, spinach, citrus fruits, onions, walnuts, berries and tomatoes to your basket.
If you feel the need during extremely stressful times, add supplements, especially vitamins A, C and E, which speed up the skin’s natural repair systems by directly inhibiting further damage. B vitamins prevent itchy, dry skin and drinking green tea and eating dark chocolate keep skin soft and supple. There is also some proof that both may help protect the skin from cancer.
We cannot fully influence the environment or the level of radiation around us. But we can control what we are putting in our own internal environment – our bodies.
As far as prescription skin care products go, I get more questions about Retin-A – a form of vitamin A – than any other item. Retin-A is a proliferator. This means it speeds up cell renewal and the production of collagen and elastin, the skin’s building blocks. As far as anti-aging goes, a vitally important process that keeps the wrinkles at bay and heals the skin more rapidly from any break-outs and sensitivity. There are many forms of vitamin A – Tazorac, Differin, Avage, Renova for example, and then blends that include topical anti-biotics, hydroquinone and cortisone. And it is really important that you know how to use whichever one you have been prescribed.
All these products make the skin photosensitive so they must only be used at night. During the day use plenty of moisturizer and an SPF of at least 30. Never use any product that combines a sunscreen and a vitamin A derivative. When used in the evening, I prefer clients to alternate Retin-A with other treatment cremes and moisturizers. Most skins should not use the product every night and I generally start first time users at 2-3 times a week. Scrubs, all AHA’s and BHA’s should be stopped until the skin has adjusted and then used sparingly on the days when Retin-A is not being applied at night-time.
If you get regular facial waxing stop using Retin-A a week before your waxing appointment to be on the safe side. I often combine my Retin-A with my moisturizer before I apply it to my skin but either way, always use a creme on top.
There are now many over the counter products that contain Vitamin A and the same rules apply. At SkinSense, we can advise you about the use of all vitamins and anti-oxidants in your every day skin care regime so don’t hesitate to get in touch. And if vitamin A doesn’t suit you, we have plenty of other options that are just as effective at fighting gravity and keeping your skin youthful.
I have written about many different ingredients over the years, particularly the new ones as they come on to the market and seem to be the next best thing! And following on from my last blog, “The Discipline of Great Skin Care” there really are some effective products and ingredients available today that have stood the test of time and have made a huge difference to how our skins age.
One I have not addressed yet is stem cell extract. Just to be clear, there is no relationship between human stem cells and plant stem cells that are used in skin care. I want to avoid any misunderstandings for ethical, political and philosophical reasons.
The advantage of plant-derived stem cells is that they are unspecialized or meristematic, until they receive a signal from the host plant to differentiate or change. Meristematic cells are generated from a defense response from the plant when it is cut. The responding callus contains stem cells that are now neutral. As they carry the entire DNA gene expression of the plant, they can turn themselves into any particular cell that is needed to heal or regenerate. At this stage these cells are cultured in the laboratory, become a usable active ingredient that eventually, when applied topically can trigger cell renewal and repair. The first research into plant stem cells was done on a variety of apple in Switzerland in the 18th century which seemed to have the ability for long-term self-preservation.
More recently, other plant extracts have been tested including edelweiss, gardenia, sea fennel, grape and lilac. The role of these plant derived ingredients in skin care products is to protect against free radical damage caused by pollution, UV exposure, inflammation and photo-aging. And the results can be dramatic. Smoother, toned skin with improved elasticity and firmness.
Stem cell harvesting does not damage or endanger the plant because a very small amount of tissue is needed and easily replaced by the host plant.
I have been in the skincare industry for many years and this is one of the most significant partnerships between nature and science I have used to date. Add some of the other great ingredients we now have at our disposal – ATP, peptides and hyaluronic acid to mention three – and we can seriously delay the effects of gravity!! Plant stem cell extracts offer us a promising and earth-friendly anti-aging tool that deserves serious examination.
Reference:
Sam Dhatt, Skin Inc. magazine, October 2012. “Plant Stem Cells: The Next Generation of Skin Care Technology.”
Ivana Veljkovic, Skin Inc. magazine, January 2012. “The Science Behind Today’s Anti-aging Ingredients.”
I have been part of the skin care industry for a long time. When I first trained as a facialist, the products and protocols we learned were a lot less sophisticated than they are today. Even though we had botanicals and essential oils to work with and some of the electrotherapy that is still being used currently, the ingredients were not as advanced and the machines not as various or highly calibrated.
I have a lot more tools in my tool box these days which makes my work even more rewarding than ever. My favorite anti-aging stars include peptides, ATP, oxygen, stem cell extract, hyaluronic acid and the old favorites, Retin-A, collagen and elastin. Ultrasound and microcurrent have also reaped great benefits for many of my clients along with galvanic and high frequency that work with even the most sensitive of skins. It is all about getting the skin, by stimulating its natural physiology and chemistry, to produce new cells, amino acids and proteins in larger quantities over longer periods of time than is normal with intrinsic aging. In other words, younger looking skin that defies our chronological age!
Good news indeed. What this requires however, is a balanced and judicious approach to just how much stimulation you subject the skin to and who is advising you about the different methods. Constant abrasion with lasers, aggressive topicals and peeling agents creates too much trauma, can damage the skin and increase sensitivity and pigmentation. Protocols have to be mixed and alternated in order to achieve optimum results and we have a lot of ‘smart’ skin care formulas today that can send messages to cell receptors in the skin which makes aggressive topical treatments unnecessary. WE need to respect the skin as a fully functional and self regulating organ. For example, using microcurrent and galvanic electrotherapy with oxygen, peptides and hyaluronic acid during the summer months, coupled with anti-oxidant serums/cremes and sunscreen at home can prepare the skin for winter peeling protocols that would repair sun damage AND boost cell production.
One final and very important tip: avoid any products that combine any form of Retin A with sunscreen. ALL Retin-A products (this includes, Tazarac and Differin) must only be applied at night.
Take a look at what you have in your bathroom and on your next spa visit, review your home care routine with your facialist. Effective skin care requires discipline, planning and commitment – it is a habit that has to be repeated every day at home and every month at the spa to reap the rewards. Luckily, the rewards show up much more quickly today because of the technology and expanded knowledge we now have about the anatomy and physiology of the skin. And other people will notice the improvement in your skin too – I promise!
Peace and tranquility – such hard things to find these days. And I have witnessed so much crazy behavior recently, it has got me thinking about the culprits and how I can develop better coping methods.
Have we reached fever pitch with the stressful and continual news we listen to and read every day? I do find the coverage of just about every news worthy, and not so news worthy item, over sensationalized. Not that such awful occurrences like the Boston bombing and the NewTown shootings are not news worthy or important. They are terrible tragedies that need our attention.
But many stories we end up watching are used to simply fill air time, are shown repeatedly and are of no great significance. Look at the way every political move is a crisis – nothing gets solved, if at all, until the very last minute and I think this approach tends to bleed out into our own lives. Or it can if we don’t pay attention to how we react and handle our everyday activities.
And as much as I love my computer and i-Phone, I do think we are over stimulated by all the information that is continually being pinged, messaged and streamed at us. Our attention is continuously being pulled in a million different directions.
Even information about diet, exercise and vitamins can be confusing. I often read conflicting reports about all these topics. It is easy to get sucked in but really more important than ever to take a step back from it all.
I have spoken in previous blogs about developing great habits to sustain a level of happiness and wellbeing in our lives and have just encountered a really good article with some great tips on how to do this. 25 of them actually. Some you have heard before, from me and many other sources, but they all bear reading and hearing again. The article appeared on a wonderful website called www.MindBodyGreen.com and was written by Kristy Rao.
Read on. Maybe there are some extra steps you can take to stay grounded and content in this wonderful but often crazy world. The title of the article is: “25 Habits of people who are Happy, Healthy and Successful.”
1. They don’t hold grudges.
2. They think outside of the box.
3. They go by a routine and make exercise a part of it. It takes practice to develop healthy habits and stick with them. Once you do, your internal foundation will be strong.
4. They have a supportive tribe, thereby not wasting time with negative or toxic people.
5. They don’t care about what other people think. Does a tiger lose sleep over the opinion of sheep?
6. They don’t people please.
7. They see difficult and challenging situations as opportunities for personal growth.
8. They consider handling rejection a skill and are resilient.
9. They make time for themselves. Whether it’s getting eight hours of sleep every night, finding 15 minutes to read the newspaper in peace or an hour to go to the gym, they make it a priority — just like everything else. When you take care of yourself, you have a bigger impact on others.
10. They are spiritual. This doesn’t necessarily mean religious. It could mean setting aside time for reflection through yoga or meditation.
11. They practice deep breathing.
12. They know there isn’t such a thing as “having it all,” and they’re happy about that. Wouldn’t the world be a boring place for them otherwise?
13. Fear doesn’t hold them back. They’re ready to take risks.
14. They know how to say “NO,” and don’t hold back. These people have learned to set boundaries. Plenty of them.
15. They learned a great deal from other people whom they admire. Either they had a great mentor, or they took note of how those they aspired to be like handled various situations.
16. They follow their inner guidance. Not only do they have a vision, but they follow it.
17. They give without expecting anything in return.
18. They aren’t pretentious or conceited.
19. Passion is what drives them. They authentically believe in what they’re doing.
20. They don’t complain.
21. They live by their core values in both their professional and personal lives.
22. They’re happy to swim against the tide.
23. They finish what they start.
24. They don’t compare themselves to other people.
25. They want you to succeed, too.
It’s a lot to aspire to but worth the effort.
