SkinSense Wellness Blog
Read on to learn about the latest news and tips to stay healthy, happy and ageless. We scour our trade journals and consult with many other health professionals to make sure the advice and recommendations we make are safe and beneficial. If there are any topics you would like to hear about, please let us know.
I have written about many different ingredients over the years, particularly the new ones as they come on to the market and seem to be the next best thing! And following on from my last blog, “The Discipline of Great Skin Care” there really are some effective products and ingredients available today that have stood the test of time and have made a huge difference to how our skins age.
One I have not addressed yet is stem cell extract. Just to be clear, there is no relationship between human stem cells and plant stem cells that are used in skin care. I want to avoid any misunderstandings for ethical, political and philosophical reasons.
The advantage of plant-derived stem cells is that they are unspecialized or meristematic, until they receive a signal from the host plant to differentiate or change. Meristematic cells are generated from a defense response from the plant when it is cut. The responding callus contains stem cells that are now neutral. As they carry the entire DNA gene expression of the plant, they can turn themselves into any particular cell that is needed to heal or regenerate. At this stage these cells are cultured in the laboratory, become a usable active ingredient that eventually, when applied topically can trigger cell renewal and repair. The first research into plant stem cells was done on a variety of apple in Switzerland in the 18th century which seemed to have the ability for long-term self-preservation.
More recently, other plant extracts have been tested including edelweiss, gardenia, sea fennel, grape and lilac. The role of these plant derived ingredients in skin care products is to protect against free radical damage caused by pollution, UV exposure, inflammation and photo-aging. And the results can be dramatic. Smoother, toned skin with improved elasticity and firmness.
Stem cell harvesting does not damage or endanger the plant because a very small amount of tissue is needed and easily replaced by the host plant.
I have been in the skincare industry for many years and this is one of the most significant partnerships between nature and science I have used to date. Add some of the other great ingredients we now have at our disposal – ATP, peptides and hyaluronic acid to mention three – and we can seriously delay the effects of gravity!! Plant stem cell extracts offer us a promising and earth-friendly anti-aging tool that deserves serious examination.
Reference:
Sam Dhatt, Skin Inc. magazine, October 2012. “Plant Stem Cells: The Next Generation of Skin Care Technology.”
Ivana Veljkovic, Skin Inc. magazine, January 2012. “The Science Behind Today’s Anti-aging Ingredients.”
I have been part of the skin care industry for a long time. When I first trained as a facialist, the products and protocols we learned were a lot less sophisticated than they are today. Even though we had botanicals and essential oils to work with and some of the electrotherapy that is still being used currently, the ingredients were not as advanced and the machines not as various or highly calibrated.
I have a lot more tools in my tool box these days which makes my work even more rewarding than ever. My favorite anti-aging stars include peptides, ATP, oxygen, stem cell extract, hyaluronic acid and the old favorites, Retin-A, collagen and elastin. Ultrasound and microcurrent have also reaped great benefits for many of my clients along with galvanic and high frequency that work with even the most sensitive of skins. It is all about getting the skin, by stimulating its natural physiology and chemistry, to produce new cells, amino acids and proteins in larger quantities over longer periods of time than is normal with intrinsic aging. In other words, younger looking skin that defies our chronological age!
Good news indeed. What this requires however, is a balanced and judicious approach to just how much stimulation you subject the skin to and who is advising you about the different methods. Constant abrasion with lasers, aggressive topicals and peeling agents creates too much trauma, can damage the skin and increase sensitivity and pigmentation. Protocols have to be mixed and alternated in order to achieve optimum results and we have a lot of ‘smart’ skin care formulas today that can send messages to cell receptors in the skin which makes aggressive topical treatments unnecessary. WE need to respect the skin as a fully functional and self regulating organ. For example, using microcurrent and galvanic electrotherapy with oxygen, peptides and hyaluronic acid during the summer months, coupled with anti-oxidant serums/cremes and sunscreen at home can prepare the skin for winter peeling protocols that would repair sun damage AND boost cell production.
One final and very important tip: avoid any products that combine any form of Retin A with sunscreen. ALL Retin-A products (this includes, Tazarac and Differin) must only be applied at night.
Take a look at what you have in your bathroom and on your next spa visit, review your home care routine with your facialist. Effective skin care requires discipline, planning and commitment – it is a habit that has to be repeated every day at home and every month at the spa to reap the rewards. Luckily, the rewards show up much more quickly today because of the technology and expanded knowledge we now have about the anatomy and physiology of the skin. And other people will notice the improvement in your skin too – I promise!
Peace and tranquility – such hard things to find these days. And I have witnessed so much crazy behavior recently, it has got me thinking about the culprits and how I can develop better coping methods.
Have we reached fever pitch with the stressful and continual news we listen to and read every day? I do find the coverage of just about every news worthy, and not so news worthy item, over sensationalized. Not that such awful occurrences like the Boston bombing and the NewTown shootings are not news worthy or important. They are terrible tragedies that need our attention.
But many stories we end up watching are used to simply fill air time, are shown repeatedly and are of no great significance. Look at the way every political move is a crisis – nothing gets solved, if at all, until the very last minute and I think this approach tends to bleed out into our own lives. Or it can if we don’t pay attention to how we react and handle our everyday activities.
And as much as I love my computer and i-Phone, I do think we are over stimulated by all the information that is continually being pinged, messaged and streamed at us. Our attention is continuously being pulled in a million different directions.
Even information about diet, exercise and vitamins can be confusing. I often read conflicting reports about all these topics. It is easy to get sucked in but really more important than ever to take a step back from it all.
I have spoken in previous blogs about developing great habits to sustain a level of happiness and wellbeing in our lives and have just encountered a really good article with some great tips on how to do this. 25 of them actually. Some you have heard before, from me and many other sources, but they all bear reading and hearing again. The article appeared on a wonderful website called www.MindBodyGreen.com and was written by Kristy Rao.
Read on. Maybe there are some extra steps you can take to stay grounded and content in this wonderful but often crazy world. The title of the article is: “25 Habits of people who are Happy, Healthy and Successful.”
1. They don’t hold grudges.
2. They think outside of the box.
3. They go by a routine and make exercise a part of it. It takes practice to develop healthy habits and stick with them. Once you do, your internal foundation will be strong.
4. They have a supportive tribe, thereby not wasting time with negative or toxic people.
5. They don’t care about what other people think. Does a tiger lose sleep over the opinion of sheep?
6. They don’t people please.
7. They see difficult and challenging situations as opportunities for personal growth.
8. They consider handling rejection a skill and are resilient.
9. They make time for themselves. Whether it’s getting eight hours of sleep every night, finding 15 minutes to read the newspaper in peace or an hour to go to the gym, they make it a priority — just like everything else. When you take care of yourself, you have a bigger impact on others.
10. They are spiritual. This doesn’t necessarily mean religious. It could mean setting aside time for reflection through yoga or meditation.
11. They practice deep breathing.
12. They know there isn’t such a thing as “having it all,” and they’re happy about that. Wouldn’t the world be a boring place for them otherwise?
13. Fear doesn’t hold them back. They’re ready to take risks.
14. They know how to say “NO,” and don’t hold back. These people have learned to set boundaries. Plenty of them.
15. They learned a great deal from other people whom they admire. Either they had a great mentor, or they took note of how those they aspired to be like handled various situations.
16. They follow their inner guidance. Not only do they have a vision, but they follow it.
17. They give without expecting anything in return.
18. They aren’t pretentious or conceited.
19. Passion is what drives them. They authentically believe in what they’re doing.
20. They don’t complain.
21. They live by their core values in both their professional and personal lives.
22. They’re happy to swim against the tide.
23. They finish what they start.
24. They don’t compare themselves to other people.
25. They want you to succeed, too.
It’s a lot to aspire to but worth the effort.
Summer is upon us again so here are six things you can do to stay safe and be kind to your skin.
Anti-oxidants – stimulate your skin’s collagen production and reduce your chances of burning by using vitamin C serums two to three times a week during the summer months. Eat foods rich in anti-oxidants like leafy greens, blueberries, kiwi, sweet potatoes and salmon.- They help to decelerate skin cell aging and repair past sun damage. Taking vitamin C with zinc will double up on boosting the skin’s natural immune system too.
Stay hydrated – as well as drinking water make sure to eat plenty of water filled vegetables during the summer months. Cucumbers, asparagus, celery and lettuce are great for added hydration and giving the skin a glow. (See post in Lifestyle/Wellness category titled “Water”).
Watch for sun sensitivity – prescription medications can cause some severe re-actions to heat and sun – everything from a painful burn, photo allergic dermatitis and pigmentation – the birth control pill in particular can cause a type of pigmentation that is extremely resilient to treatment. So check labels for any warnings and consult your doctor or pharmacist if you are unsure. My recommendation is to be a shade hound!
Sun screen application – lots has been written about this topic. As far as formulation goes, current wisdom recommends sticking with zinc, titanium and mineral based sun screens. Other anti-inflammatory and calming ingredients to look for would be aloe, green tea and pomegranate and as already mentioned in this blog, vitamin C. As we all know, a higher SPF does not mean double the protection and can often be irritating. Stick with an SPF 30 and find a texture and weight that suits your skin type. There are now powders as well as cremes and lotions.
Apply sun screen liberally at least 30 minutes before leaving the house and layer twice waiting 15 minutes before second application if possible. This ensures a more thorough covering. Consider any protection contained in make-up a bonus and not a main source of protection. (See this post in Seasonal category titled “Skin Sense on Sun Sense“).
Summer facials – all this extra product causes clogging and congestion so have deep cleansing facials every three weeks during the summer months. Avoid chemical peels, heavy exfoliation and laser treatments during this time. As already mentioned, the heat and sun can cause pigmentation and irritation – the very conditions that these protocols aim to correct. For maximum summer skin care, try oxygen facials. These super-deep cleansing treatments restore hydration and tighten skin tone.
Sunless tanners – using one of the many sunless tanning products is a healthy alternative to the sun and keeps the skin glowing throughout the summer months. Start with a spa visit and then re-apply at home every 2-3 days. Return to the spa for an exfoliation and re-application every month to keep the tan fresh and the skin properly hydrated. Be careful about using these products on the face – they can both dry the skin and stain the pores. Better to use a tinted moisturizer.
Organic, natural, cosmeceutical skin care. What’s the difference?
In recent years the concept of using organic products has really taken off. The word ‘organic’ has sprung up all over the place – on food, clothing and many household goods.
We carry an excellent organic line at SkinSense Wellness Spa called 302 Skincare and it sells really well. And we carry other lines that mix synthetic ingredients, cosmeceuticals with botanicals, natural plant extracts and essential oils. So I thought it might be useful to clarify these variations so that you can decide more easily what to use on your own skin.
The terms ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ are often interpreted as the same thing and this is not the case. A natural ingredient can mean anything from arsenic to digitalis, neither of which would be safe to use on the skin! And safety often depends on how an extract is processed.
A truly organic USDA approved product has gone through stricter regulatory conditions than other organic products which means crops are grown without using most conventional pesticides or fertilizers. There are, in fact three categories of manufacturing levels instituted by the USDA:
- 100% organic
- Organic
- Made with organic ingredients.
Both natural and organic products incorporate botanical and herbal ingredients into their formulations and both are susceptible to quality variations more so than synthetic. Plant growing conditions like weather variations and pest control, harvesting times, transport and storage can drastically affect consistency. Many clients who prefer organic products have sensitive skin and are concerned about consistency as their skins don’t like change. Other client’s are concerned about the environment. Word to the wise. There is such a thing as ‘wildcrafting’ where wild plants are harvested for commercial use. This is unregulated and puts both clients and certain plants at risk. Sustainable practices should be supported and we need as consumers to know the difference.
The term ‘synthetic’ can often imply something artificially derived or chemically produced in a laboratory but in fact all products are produced in a laboratory, synthetic or otherwise. And synthetic ingredients can sometimes offer more consistency. Cosmeceutical ingredients trend towards the newly discovered anti-aging ingredients – like ATP, collagen, retinoids,and stem cell extract, for example. Then we have botanicals and essential oils that offer a myriad of anti-oxidant and restorative benefits.
In my experience the one factor that is most important in skin care is quality. All ingredients should be rigorously tested and of the highest grade. And as well as being great at performing day to day maintenance should offer extensive anti-aging benefits. That is why we choose to offer a wide range of skin care products to suit every skin type.
The following article about SkinSense founder Marion Simms is featured in the February 2013 edition of Skin Inc.
Excerpt:
“Turn the pages of the Fall 1988 issue of Skin Inc. magazine, and the first column you’ll see is “Q & A” written by Marion Simms. She tackled questions about tretinoin, the topical form of vitamin A; sterilization and sanitation; and the risks of indoor tanning. She also served on the magazine’s advisory board through December 2001.”
Download a copy of the full article here.
Award-winning writer Lois Hince has been with Allured Business Media for 20 years and
currently is the company’s corporate managing editor.
I think at this point we are all a bit tired of hearing the terms ‘detox’ and ‘cleanse.’ They tend to pop up around Spring because this time of year suggests renewal and new beginnings. Certainly, an occasional cleanse to give the liver, kidneys and digestive system a break is a great idea but I think a healthier and more realistic approach would be to consider your overall health and lifestyle and make a list of the things you need to improve. We all have them – less cheese and chocolate, more exercise, less coffee and alcohol, more water and more sleep. Those recurring “must do’s” that we never fully get around to somehow. And guess what – they all affect the skin!
So I am going to suggest six easy steps that may help you. Maybe you are already doing these things but then, maybe not!
Exfoliate the body – get that dead winter skin off with some vigorous dry brushing, followed by a good soak and scrub session in the bath tub. Then slather on a body lotion. Gently exfoliate and moisturize the face too. (No dry brushing please!)
Get a professional pedicure. Start prepping for those fit flops ahead of time and for the extra hiking and time in the gym that you are now planning to spend. Comfortable feet making exercising much more fun!
Check your supplements. Make sure you have vitamins E, C and zinc to boost the skin’s immune system and fish or flaxseed oil capsules and probiotics for your internal immune system. Add Milk Thistle if you want to do a gentle liver cleanse.
When you go grocery shopping add the following to your list: asparagus, blueberries, pineapple, cinnamon, grapefruit, beets, and pomegranates. All of these fruits and vegetables are loaded with anti-oxidants that aid digestion, give you lots of energy and radiant skin. I know cinnamon is not a fruit or vegetable but it is great for the heart and circulation which you need to stimulate on a regular basis to maintain good health.
Drink a green juice daily with lots of water to aid elimination and overall bodily function. Leave out the alcohol for at least one month.
Keep the diet light – avoid meat and dairy (use almond or hemp milk instead) and stick with fish and legumes, nuts and green vegetables for protein for at least three weeks.
The general idea here is that without doing anything too drastic you will develop healthier habits that make you feel and look better and that you can stick with year long.
We all tend to commit to a refreshed resolve at the beginning of each year regarding our diets and life style. And I have already blogged about many aspects of how to go about this. So I thought a quick re-cap and a short plan of action might be timely.
Sugar Busting.
Sugar is now considered by many experts to be a key factor in aging because of the additional free radical activity it causes and because of its ability to deplete the immune system by reducing the germ gobbling capacity of our white blood cells.
So the first step to getting healthy for 2013 is to cut back on sugar. Start by reading food packages to check the glycemic index they contain. This includes everything from ‘healthy’ juices to bread. Sugar shows up in surprising places so you really have to develop some serious sleuthing techniques. Try to eliminate as much starch and as many simple carbohydrates as possible.
Load up on vegetables and fruits, particularly apples and berries, and if you crave something really sweet, stick to dark chocolate. For more information on sugar and the effect it has on our bodies read my blog “The not so sweet side of Sugar”.
Guzzle, guzzle, guzzle.
Fluids.
Take some time out from alcohol. This is another source of sugar that really works the liver so to detox well we have to give the liver a break. Start each day with a big glass of water – room temperature or warm with a squirt of fresh lemon in it. Continue to drink water throughout the day.
Limit the amount of caffeine you drink – maybe to one caffeinated beverage a day – supplement with fruit teas, green tea, dandelion tea and ginger root. Juicing is a great way to cleanse out inner organs. Celery, kale, cucumber, watercress and beetroot are fabulous diuretics and these same vegetables can also be made in to a nourishing soup.
Take those vitamins.
Supplements.
Everyone tends to have a certain regimen in place but to start the New Year off on the right foot, check you have included C, zinc, the B family (particularly 5 and 12), fish oils, milk thistle and a good probiotic in the mix (make sure the cultures in the probiotic number in the trillions).
Keep moving.
Exercise.
We live in a great place for getting out into nature if you are not a gym rat or like attending classes. Mix things up to keep it interesting – 3-4 times a week for at least 40 minutes for maintenance; more often if you have some pounds to lose.
Rest up and play lots.
Check out my most recent blog “Sleeping beauty (How sleep affects your skin)” to bone up on the importance of sleep and how it affects your skin and the aging process. But bear in mind, rest is just as important. Cultivate hobbies and interests outside of work, like reading and gardening. Schedule social time with friends and loved ones and quiet time and spa time for yourself.
Your mind is a powerful tool. When you feel your life is in balance because you are working, resting and living well, you feel more positive about everything. It has been proven that optimists live longer so I really recommend you make the effort to treat yourself with care. I guarantee your efforts will result in more energy, a slimmer waistline and a more focused, fulfilled and happier life.
When we go to the doctor and are told that whatever ails us is triggered by stress, it is always a frustrating diagnosis. Too vague somehow. We want something more concrete.
I recently asked a client who is a gastroenterologist what, in her opinion, is the main cause of IBS (irritable bowel syndrome) and her answer was stress. In fact she told me that most of the medications prescribed for IBS are for anxiety.
With all that is going on in our world right now, how can we keep our stress levels under control to avoid developing chronic illness and without devoting hours to meditation or moving to some remote island without electricity.
Maybe one way to stay calm would be to take our hobbies to a new level. I know many of you already have interests outside of work because they come up a lot in conversation during spa visits. And I also know many of you will react with the question “Who has the time?” But gardening, games, puzzles (not all online and using an electronic device), photography, reading, and cooking are all hobbies that can provide endless pleasure and get us to relax and concentrate on lighter pursuits.
Take gardening for example. Many people now grow some if not many of their own vegetables. A study in the Netherlands compared reduced cortisol levels after one random group read for 30 minutes and another gardened for the same amount of time. The gardeners’ cortisol levels were the lowest. Not that I am against reading. I read a lot and belong to a book club that I find really interesting, but being in touch with nature connects us to the earth and that has a very comforting effect on us all.
Cooking is another great way to relax, especially if you have some favourite background music playing while you prepare your food. Maybe take a cooking class before the Holidays and surprise your family and friends with some new recipes or exchange recipes with friends?
Several of my clients are also making their own Holiday cards this year. We have a newly opened Paper Source in our neighbourhood that offers evening classes in all kinds of crafts. Sending cards that are hand-made adds a very personal touch, allows you to be creative and saves money. Many of us underestimate our creative talents both in the garden and arts arena.
Photography is another hobby that can bring endless pleasure. Our phones now take great pictures as we go about our daily lives, but take it one step further and carry a camera on you every day to capture images you may want to re-produce for that gallery at home.
Finally, get together with friends and family as much as possible and laugh. It really is the best medicine and exercises all those facial muscles in the best possible way!!
These are just a few ideas that may help you unwind and keep those stress levels under control. If you would like to share some other ways that you enjoy, please e-mail me at msimms {at} skinsensewellness.com. I would love to hear from you.
Essential oils are wonderful mood enhancers. In the Fall and Winter months they can be especially useful at home to brighten the mood and provide stress relief.
Fall is my favorite time of year and as the evenings shorten and the weather cools, I am always reminded of the crisp Autumnal days of my childhood growing up in the Sussex countryside. England has a wonderfully colorful Fall foliage season every year and as you roam the fields and lanes, crunching fallen leaves underfoot while admiring each indiviual tree, you can smell the open hearth fires in the brisk air.
To re-capture some of that seasonal nostalgia, I always burn some incense at this time of year and change out my diffuser recipes to aromas that are a little more heady and redolent. Clove bud and spearmint is my current favourite, but here are a few more that might warm your darker evenings:
Orange, grapefruit and nutmeg for an uplifting pick-me up.
Peppermint, rosemary and lavender for a head soother after a hectic day.
Geranium, lavender and chamomile to nurture any emotional upheaval.
Rose and ylang-ylang for a romantic evening in.
We have tried all kinds of diffusers and prefer the ones that use a tea-light and water – just make sure that you keep the water topped up regularly. Inhale and Relax!
Refer to my previous post “Lovely Lavender” to learn more about this universal essential oil.
