SkinSense Wellness Blog
Read on to learn about the latest news and tips to stay healthy, happy and ageless. We scour our trade journals and consult with many other health professionals to make sure the advice and recommendations we make are safe and beneficial. If there are any topics you would like to hear about, please let us know.
I often get asked why I carry Guinot, 302 and PCA skin care lines at SkinSense so here is a brief summary of all three. Feel free to call with any questions about these products or any others that you may be using.
GUINOT is a skin care line that has been privately owned and operated for over half a century. With the cache of French luxury and the advantages of time tested formulas and modern science, the Guinot line offers the best possible solution to just about every skin problem. I have always used it because of the great results I have seen continuously on my clients’ skins over the two decades I have owned SkinSense. Each formula takes sensitivity into account which is so vital in today’s stressed world where acne, rosacea and even pigmentation can be triggered by our fast paced lives (see previous post on Melasma).
Essential oils, active botanicals and the latest in hydration and aging formulas are all available in this line which suits our clients interested in anti-aging and optimum skin maintenance.
302 Skincare is a 100% organic line with a wonderful avocado molecule that messages the cell receptors to get busy. Also great for sensitive skins, the formulas are uncomplicated and extremely gentle. Clients love the price point and simplicity of these products.
We use PCA skn care to target very specific issues like acne, rosacea and pigmentation and we find the formulas blend very well with everything else we stock. Once again the price point is extremely favorable and even though the ingredients are tough on acne and break-outs they rebalance and correct without causing any irritation.
It took us a long time to decide on these lines and are very proud and happy to utilise all three.
Dry brushing the skin is a great way to detox the body. It increases the circulation, stimulates the lymphatic system, improves the overall smoothness and appearance of the skin and of course, gets rid of dead cells by the bucket loads!
The skin is the largest organ of the human body. It controls the body’s thermostat – keeping us cool and warm when necessary; it absorbs useful ingredients; secretes toxins; protects the internal organs and contains nerve endings that allow us to feel the world around us.
One of the most important functions of the skin, however, is sweating. The skin is responsible for excreting one pound of waste product every day. If the sweat glands can’t do their job because they are blocked with dead skin, toxins can get trapped inside the body which creates cellulite, lymph buildup and general imbalance.
Sisal brushes are best used for dry brushing. Before jumping in the shower take a brush and systematically work over the body in firm circular movements. Stay in each area for a few minutes or until the skin is rosy pink. No cremes or lotions should be applied beforehand – thus the term ‘dry’ brushing.
Brushes can be maintained by tapping off any dry skin and storing in a dry place. Wiping occasionally with alcohol on a dry gauze is also a good idea as long as the bristles don’t get wet. As you have probably realized by now – water is not part of this overall process!!
The skin sheds about one million cells a day – most of your house debris probably consists of dead skin.
Shedding slows as we age, so extra sloughing on a regular basis helps to keep skin healthy, youthful and vibrant. And there are lots of options available to get rid of those cells more quickly. Here are the three main categories: mechanical, digestive/chemical and proliferating.
Mechanical methods include nut scrubs, polyethylene balls, micro-fine pumice and more aggressive protocols like microdermabrasion, dermaplaning and skin resurfacing.
Chemical methods include digestive fruit acids like AHA and BHA’s, enzymes from papaya, pineapple and pumpkin and deeper peeling protocols like TCA (trichloroacetic acid) and enhanced Jessner’s solutions.
Proliferators speed up the cell renewal process as well as encouraging the production of collagen and elastin. This includes the retinoid family derived from Vitamin A – and used regularly, these products can really improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
TIP: The products in these categories degrade quickly in sun and when exposed to oxygen so use at night only and if irritation occurs stop using until the skin is calm again.
All these methods work really well and make a difference to the appearance of the skin. Ask your facialist what would be best for your skin condition.
Over the many years I have traveled back and forth to London I have tried many things to keep my skin looking fresh when I arrive. So here are a few ideas you might like to try on your next journey.
Taking a flying trip this summer? Fun, but oh, those plane rides and what they can do to the skin! Stale, recycled air, 10% humidity, poor lighting and extra exposure to UV rays with no atmospheric protection, not to mention very little or no sleep!!
Here are a few tips to help your skin glow on arrival.
Get a really deep cleansing, hydrating facial 3-5 days before you leave. At SkinSense we offer the Hydradermie, Guinot’s signature galvanic treatment that does it all.
The night before the flight, treat your skin to a hydrating mask. Slather on body lotion and condition your hair. Do the same thing the night of your arrival and if the skin has become cranky during the flight, apply a clay mask that has a corrective, rebalancing formula.
Before boarding, make sure your skin is super hydrated – eye creme, serum, moisturizer and sunscreen and if you use mineral cosmetics, a light dusting will add extra protection.
If you have oilier skin, just use a serum after cleansing and toning, and add topicals before sunscreen and mineral powder.
TIP: Spraying water on the skin during a flight may feel refreshing but it dehydrates the skin surface. We recommend 302 Calming Mist which contains botanicals that hydrate and tone continuously.
DON’T FORGET: drink plenty of water. Hydrate from the inside out as well as the outside in. Avoid alcohol, tea and coffee during the flight and pack a few healthy snacks – fruit, nuts, energy bars – edibles that are light and easy to digest. Sitting for a length of time can cramp the system so remember to walk around from time to time and stretch your body.
Happy Trails!!
At SkinSense, we treat many male clients with shaving issues. Here are some useful tips to help ease this necessary and often irritating daily ritual.
Think lilacs and violets and a shave beyond belief that starts the night before. Think no nicks, irritation or ingrown hairs. These are the elements that come together to provide the perfect wet shave.
Basic Tools:
A good brush – preferably Badger and English made.
Lots of hot water.
A good razor – non-disposable, preferably a single blade.
Good quality shaving creme in a tub, not a can. This is where the lilacs and violets come in. Initially more expensive but longer lasting.
Topical salicylic acid and/or Neosporin creme.
Gentle toner and soothing aftershave balm.
A silk pillow case.
Technique:
Make sure the night before you shave that you apply plenty of moisturizer. It will make the overnight hair growth softer and less resilient. In the morning, shower first, and then shave. If you don’t shower, then fill a wash basin with plenty of hot water and splash the skin thoroughly before beginning to shave. For best results, the skin needs to be wet.
Wet your brush well, twirl it around in the shaving creme and apply to the face lavishly. Work up a really rich lather. Take your razor and shave with downward strokes, keeping the blade wet at all times. Use gentle pressure and let the weight of the razor guide you.
When all the beard growth has been removed, pat the skin dry with a towel and apply a gentle toner to the whole face. If there are any nicks, cuts or ingrown hairs, spot treat with a 2% salicylic acid or a dab of the Neosporin relief creme. Finish with a light, soothing moisturizer and SPF.
Why a silk pillow case? There are two benefits. Not only will your face be less wrinkled in the morning but you will be less likely to get ingrown hairs. Happy Shaving!
A while ago I remember talking to a plastic surgeon and telling him that most women would love to have the option to go without make-up every day. His response was that that simply wasn’t possible as we grow older.
Over time, the effects of aging, including sun damage, increased sensitivity, uneven skin tone and larger pore structure do require us to wear make-up to put our best face forward. The good news is that the make-up we apply no longer needs to be heavy or an obvious cover-up. Mineral cosmetics are a much healthier choice. The absence of talc, glycerin, paraffin, waxes and fragrance normally found in traditional foundations allows these finely milled products to protect and correct all day. Simply formulated from titanium, zinc and iron oxides, mineral powders and liquids smooth out the appearance of the skin instantly, do not clog the pores, offer sun protection, correct oiliness and break-outs and calm irritation. They are also gentle enough to be applied after cosmetic surgery and laser treatments.
Applying make-up can be a daunting prospect for many of us and this is where mineral cosmetics offer another advantage. They are really easy to apply, leave no demarcation line on the jaw and can be layered over problem areas without looking heavy or bulky. In other words, your skin looks flawless without the assistance of an expert make-up artist!! As a facialist who has seen countless break-outs and clogging caused by poorly formulated make-up over the years, I give mineral cosmetics my 100% approval.
Final tip: the brushes used to apply the powders should be washed at least once a week. For more tips on how to take care of your cosmetics and when to replace them, check out the Past Articles/What’s in Your Cosmetic Bag section on this website.
I know we have only just launched into Springtime, and the sun has been heavily mingled with the rain recently, but let’s recap on a few tips regarding sun protection. It is always a good thing to get a head start on these things in my opinion.
Skin cancer can originate on any part of the body, but some of the most common areas are the nose, ears, upper backs of men and women and the legs of women because of the high incidence of sun burns in these areas. One or more blistering sunburns in childhood or adolescence more than doubles a person’s chance of developing melanoma in later life but the good news is the survival rate for patients whose melanoma is detected early – before the tumor has penetrated the skin – is about 99%. For those whose melanoma is advanced, the survival rate is much lower, about 15%. The Mayo clinic is currently building a melanoma vaccine to help combat skin cancer from the inside out. Called cancer immunotherapy it is already showing some promising results and may help to improve the above statistics in the future.
Meanwhile, here are a few important tips to keep you safe. First and foremost, wear a daily SPF and get checked by your dermatologist at least once a year – a full body examination.
Remember to apply your sunscreen 20-30 minutes before exposure, on top of your day creme and under your make-up. For longer periods of exposure, re-apply regularly and generously depending on how long you are outdoors and the sensitivity of your skin. Special Note: water renders most sunscreens ineffective so always re-apply after swimming. Also, apply a good dose of common sense to being outside – use hats, wear long sleeves, stay in the shade, avoid the mid-day sun and on long drives, wear cotton gloves to protect the hands. Remember that SPF 30 blocks 96.6% of the sun’s rays. Higher SPF’s are often more expensive, give a false sense of security, only provide 2-4% extra protection and can be irritating.
Finally, include anti-oxidants in your diet and in your topical skin care regimes. Vitamins E and C, peptides, hyaluronic acid and ceramides strengthen the skin’s natural resistance to the sun, and vegetables containing beta carotene, apricots, tomatoes, green tea and fish oils reduce inflammation and sensitivity. For women, mineral cosmetics provide another layer of protection.
Self tanning lotions have come a long way in recent years. They smell better, look a lot more natural and offer a much safer way of achieving a golden hue in the summer months. When you have a fit of nostalgia and start thinking about those old fashioned sun bathing sessions just remind yourself that the sun is on the top of the list as far as aging is concerned. I think we all saw “Something about Mary”. Need I say more!!
At this point, most of us have experienced a massage or two – on a cruise or as part of a spa visit – but sometimes it can be a little intimidating deciding what style of treatment to choose, what to wear and what to take off in the room.
These days it is accepted that you completely disrobe and get under the blankets naked, but wear underwear if it makes you feel more at ease. It is all about the relaxation and you need to be comfortable. Always wear loose clothing to the massage. Wriggling in and out of tight clothes spoils the whole ambiance of the treatment.
Let’s do a quick recap of the most popular massages:
Swedish Massage – this is the most common type of massage. It is a good starting point for newcomers and a great stand-by for overall tension release. Long strokes knead the muscles and increase the blood circulation.
Deep Tissue Massage – is a Swedish massage with a lot more pressure. This intensity can result in a couple of days of soreness following treatment but is really good for athletes because it gets rid of lactic acid build-up in the muscles.
Sports Massage – involves more stretching and rocking and tends to be performed at a more vigorous pace. It is also a great massage to get when treating an injury.
Thai Massage – often referred to as ‘yoga for the lazy’ and performed on the floor, this massage mixes acupressure, shiatsu with stretching and yogi asanas. It provides pain relief and increases flexibility. Great for serious golfers! Wearing baggy clothing for this treatment is a must. (You keep your clothes on).
Reflexology – the principle behind reflexology is that every organ has a corresonding point on the bottom or top of the feet, ankles and hands. The technician will thumb press these points to release stress, pain and tension in the body. The technique can also be used on the ears. At SkinSense we have used reflexology very sucessfully to bring relief to late stage pregnancies.
Prenatal – and talking of pregnancy, expectant mothers experience unique physical and emotional changes. Prenatal massage is specially designed to reduce swelling, soothe neck and back aches, improve muscle strength and relieve fatigue. First time mothers are advised to avoid massage during the first trimester but after that, massage is very helpful.
Hot Stone – for deeper relaxation, heated stones are placed on the body, between the toes and on the chakra points to melt away tension and allow deeper penetration of the muscles during treatment. This is a wonderful gift to give someone you care about.
Obviously all these protocols have something in common and sometimes use similar techniques. All will lift your spirits, refresh the mind and re-energise the body. Never be afraid to tell your therapists where your body hurts or where you feel the most tension and let them know if the pressure suits you as the treatment progresses. For best results, it is a good idea to mix massage types. Get treatments every two to three weeks, or weekly when treating an injury and always drink plenty of water following every massage.
Many of my clients pick their skin. This is an addictive habit exacerbated by extreme or chronically stressful situations and the worst of it is that there is more to pick when we are stressed! Psoriasis, eczema, acne and dry flaky skin can all be partially attributed to the excess cortisol that is produced as a stress response. Hormones, neuropeptides and other signaling molecules also released during these times can be as aging as sunlight because they break down proteins and DNA. All this disruption drives many clients into the bathroom in a quest to somehow fix or ’cleanse’ the situation.
I recently had a client tell me that she ‘prepares’ her bathroom for a picking session. She brings in a magnifying mirror, comfortable chair and box of Kleenex and then works at her skin for an hour or more. She told me it gives her a sense of control, relief, and emotional release. It is also the opinion of Ted Grosshart, an assistant clinical professor of psychology at Harvard Medical School, that the compulsion to pick can be intensified by drugs taken for ADD and ADHD. Of course, after picking and the ensuing irritation and scabbing, most clients feel shame and less social because of their appearance. This form of isolation severely affects their self-esteem. It is a deeply psychological problem and needs to be handled with patience and compassion.
So how can we begin to break the cycle? Keeping the skin surface smooth with exfoliants and regular facials that include the use of AHA’s, BHA’s and other light peeling agents will get rid of little bumps and surface unevenness that might tempt fingers to go to work. Become aware of when you pick – at your desk, in the car, at home when you are watching television, when you have to deal with new environments? Iona Ginsburg, associate professor of psychiatry in dermatology at Colombia University has a useful tip. She suggests her patients put a Band-Aid around the fingers that do most of the picking. We encourage our clients to wash their skins’ by candle-light and time themselves in the bathroom. No more than five minutes to cleanse, tone and hydrate.
We also offer complimentary zaps in between spa visits to keep the skin and the client under control. Once the skin begins to clear and the client is no longer ashamed of how she/he looks, their demeanor and confidence grows. Confucius once claimed: ”True quality of life comes from a lasting harmony between body and mind.” Clear skin is that, plus a great facialist to guide the healing and an easy to follow home care regime that keeps the skin clear and healthy. Then there is no need for picking.
That sweet tooth! Who knew it could get us into so much trouble? When we consume sugar in all its forms – especially the refined type – it attaches itself very quickly to proteins and fats in our bodies. This is called GLYCATION. The really bad news is that sugar has a particular affinity for dermal proteins, the deeper layers of the skin. The by-product of glycation is known as advanced glycation end products (or AGEs) and age us it does, causing stiffening of the connective tissue, inflammation, wrinkles and sagging.
Cross linking in proteins is part of the natural aging process, but if you add poor lifestyle to the mix – smoking, UV exposure, drug use, lack of exercise and poor diet – then you have the perfect storm.
ELIMINATE REFINED SUGARS:
Eliminating all sugars from our diet is not advisable either. Complex carbohydrates supply much needed glucose to fuel cellular activity throughout the body. BUT we can eliminate certain foods to help the skin retain some of its natural youthfulness and tone. These would include refined sugars, white bread and all simple carbohydrates, and the worst culprit of all, high-fructose corn syrup.
READ LABELS:
Fruit flavored drinks and even crackers often contain very high levels of sugar and so do most processed foods, so scrutinize any pre-packaged products before you put them in your shopping basket.
TAKE SUPPLEMENTS:
We can further counteract the damaging effects of glycation by adding the amino acid, CARNOSINE, to our supplement list, GREEN TEA to our fluid intake and other anti-oxidants to our diet, such as vitamins A, B1 and B6, C and E. These are all potent AGE inhibitors.
CHECK GLYCEMIC LEVELS:
Checking the glycemic levels of the fruits and vegetables we consume can make a big difference. This information can be found easily on the internet. For example, carrots, corn and potatoes contain a lot of sugar but spinach, Swiss chard, broccoli and cucumbers contain very little. Plus, they are alkaline in nature and help to maintain the pH balance in the gut (refer to my previous post Healthy Skin and the Value of pH Balancing).
So, next time you have a hankering for something sweet, reach for a handful of cherries, berries, an apple, peach or a plum. And if you want to follow the example of our French beauty experts, a piece of dark chocolate.
