Author Archives: SkinSense
Great skin requires commitment and discipline – two words that can strike terror in a lot of peoples’ hearts. But the benefits always outweigh the effort. Follow these twelve tips and you will be beaming from ear to ear.
Have regular ( preferably monthly) customized facials and take care of your skin AM & PM.
Use sun screen.
Don’t smoke.
Drink half your body weight in water.
Take your vitamins AM & PM.
Eat at least three fruits and five vegetables a day and keep your diet 80% alkaline and 20% acidic.*
Get to bed by 10.30 pm at least five nights a week.
Exercise at least four times a week for an hour.
Don’t pick your skin.
Don’t drink sodas.
Hang upside down for fifteen minutes every day. (Yoga counts).
Laugh LOTS.
*Read “Stop Aging, Start Living” by Jeannette Graf, M.D.
When reading skin care product labels these days it helps to be a chemistry major. However, not all of us are. So here are some useful tips to clue you in to what you are using to look gorgeous every day!
Although most ingredients are listed in order of their concentration, manufacturing companies today are not required to list percentages. So as a general guideline, pay attention to the top five ingredients to inform you of the product’s main functions. Most active ingredients are also listed separately – for example, sunscreens and acne products. But just to confuse the issue, not all active ingredients have to be near the top of the list and can be beneficial at lower levels. Certain botanicals, vitamins A, C and E are good examples of these ingredients.
Know that there is a difference between ‘fragrance free’ and ‘unscented’ products. The first claim means that raw ingredients used have had their odors removed before blending in a formulation and contain no fragrance at all. The second claim refers to a formulation where ‘masking’ or ‘neutralizing’ agents have been added to the formulation to disguise any odor. Although fragrance free products tend to be more costly, the investment is worth it if you have very sensitive skin. Another point to make here – ‘hypoallergenic’ doesn’t necessarily guarantee that the product won’t cause a re-action. Skin can be sensitive to just about anything! I often see a client who has been using the same products for years and suddenly finds that their skin has become sensitive to those trusted products. Anything is possible and it depends on the expertise of your facialist to find a regime that works for you.
Buy date-stamped skin care products when possible or mark the date of purchase yourself especially on those items that last for a while. Products are supposedly manufactured with a shelf life of two years but it is impossible to know when the product was actually sealed and left the factory for distribution or how long it has been shelved. As a general rule and it hotter climates, keep nothing past six months ( prescription and highly active products no longer than three months) and buy what you need rather than stock piling products. As a precautionary measure, store unopened products in the refrigerator.
Skin is a mixture of oil and water. Therefore an oil-free formulation has to have something in it that will adhere to the skin. Silicone is generally a good substitute in these cases. If you have a real problem with oils, use serums, water based products or powder formulations.
Word to the wise – all products claiming to be organic are not created equal!! Great as they are, by nature, organic formulas tend to show some inconsistencies in both texture and smell with each new batch. Well formulated cosmeceuticals tend to be more consistent and just because you can’t pronounce an ingredient doesn’t mean it is a bad addition to a product. Some of those chemicals are extremely necessary and most are completely harmless. When shopping for organic, look for the NSF and USDA symbols both of which guarantee high organic content in the formulas.
Whatever you use keep in mind that during the day your products should hydrate and protect. At night they should correct and treat.
Stress is a normal psychological and physical reaction to the ever-increasing demands of life. We all experience varying levels at different times and in many situations. Under these circumstances the brain’s hard-wiring system kicks in. When it perceives a threat, the brain signals your body to release a burst of hormones to fuel your capacity for a response. This has been labeled the “fight-or-flight” response and is a normal bodily reaction that is meant to protect us. However, because we now live in a world of nonstop stress most of the time, our alarm systems rarely shuts off!
Without stress management and over time, high levels of stress lead to serious health problems including a myriad of skin issues.
How?
Hormones, neuropeptides and other signaling molecules released during stressful times may be second only to sunlight in aging the skin. And the really bad news? Women are more prone than men. That means wrinkling, loss of tone and increased levels of sensitivity, particularly as we age.
Additionally, proteins and DNA in the epidermis and dermis urn can cause acne, rosacea, psoriasis, eczema and hives.
Feeling bad about the way we look makes us less social and more isolated. This aloneness diminishes the production of Oxytocin, the bonding hormone. And as I mentioned in my last post, encourages compulsive picking and other bad habits.
What to do?
It is unrealistic to imagine we can ever live a stress free life but we can commit to developing coping skills that maintain balance, even at the worst of life’s moments.
Here are six of my favorites:
Getting outdoors and in touch with nature. Hiking, gardening, sitting on a park bench all reconnect us with our natural surroundings.
Breathing deeply. Not just when we are really stressed but at regular times throughout the day.
Disconnecting from social media for a day or if that sounds unimaginable, half a day!
Changing your mindset. When a challenge presents itself, think of it as an opportunity for personal growth.
Have a supportive tribe so you don’t waste time with negative or toxic people.
And finally, my new favorite, get out your colored pencils! Adult coloring books are all the craze right now. They can relief stress and anxiety as well as reconnecting you with your inner child. Check out “Secret Garden: An Inky Treasure Hunt and Coloring Book” or “Enchanted Forest: An Inky Quest & Coloring Book”. They are great fun and thoroughly engrossing.
Confucius once claimed: “True quality of life comes from lasting harmony between body and mind.” This is a goal worth aiming for.
Onychomycosis, or nail fungus, is a common and difficult problem that many of my clients ask me about, especially during the summer months when feet are on display. Until recently, topical treatments were not very effective. However, my dermatologist, Steven Weiss, MD., recommends two new topical solutions, Jublia and Kerydin, that have demonstrated better results. They’re most effective for limited nail involvement and need to be applied daily for 1 year. They require less monitoring than the oral medication, Lamisil (Terbinafine) which can be effective but has certain contra-indications.
By the way, laser treatments, which have been hyped in recent years, are not effective for clearing nail fungus. Recurrence rates are high, and the only thing they affect is your pocket book. See my post about “A Cautionary Tale of A Big Toe and Fungus“.
Here are a few preventative steps you can take to prevent nail fungus:
1. Change out of tennis shoes and socks directly after working out.
2. Check that all your shoes give you plenty of toe room and fit properly so that your body weight hits your heels to prevent any bruising to the big toe.
3. Make sure that you go to a good pedicurist consistently who does not believe in severe cuticle trimming and pushing but regular maintenance.
4. Leave the nails free of polish once in a while. Also, don’t leave the same polish on for too long.
5. After showering make sure the feet and nails are dried properly. Trapped water can lift the nail and provide the perfect place for fungus to take hold.
6. One final tip – avoid too much sugar in the diet. Strange as it may sound, this too can cause foot fungus.
Real Simple magazine has just published a very interesting article on skin cancer. Primarily focused on Squamous cell carcinoma, (SCC), and Basal cell carcinoma, (BCC), the publication quoted some pretty alarming statistics about these close cousins to Melanoma, the most deadly form of skin cancer. According to the American Cancer Society, SCC makes up about 20 per cent of skin cancer diagnoses in America, and BCC accounts for almost 80 percent, making it the most common form of skin cancer for both men and women.
The good news is that these cancers tend to grow slowly so as long as you go for regular (at least once a year) check-ups with your dermatologist, you are very likely to catch any problems in the early stages before anything becomes difficult to remove and requires extensive surgery.
Most often Moh’s micrographic surgery is used to remove trouble spots. This is where one thin layer is removed at a time until the tissue shows no sign of containing any cancerous cells. This is done as an outpatient procedure and once the tissue is clear, the procedure is complete. The great news is that Moh’s surgery is 98% successful. Once the site has healed there is very little sign that anything was ever amiss.
It really all starts with early sun protection and regular self examinations at home every month. The occurrence BCC’s and SCC’s has risen significantly in women under the age of 40. Indoor tanning is the biggest culprit but also incidental sun exposure on a daily basis. (Running errands, driving, walking short distances.) Another factor is the misconception that a covering of tinted moisturizer or make-up with an SPF15 will do the trick. Not even close. An SPF of at least 30 is an absolute must, regardless of weather and climate, and make-up, tinted or full, needs to be applied on top. Don’t forget the ears, back of the neck and chest. Very high SPF’s can irritate the skin and don’t offer a significant amount of extra protection but up to factor 45 works well and if you have sensitive skin, try a physical block that only contains titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.
It is very easy to mistake these skin cancers for pimples, so here is what to look for. Painful or itchy lesions, pimples that erupt, bleed, heal and then return. Crusty patches that look like dry skin, are waxy or pearly in appearance, growths with elevated borders and indented centers. Bear in mind that no matter what your race or skin color, you have upwards of a 40 per cent chance of developing one of these cancers by the age of 65. And they do reoccur.
The other advantage of regular check-ups is that it will allow the dermatologist to keep an eye out for melanoma as well. All this scary stuff is so preventable. Always keep a large brimmed hat in the car and when driving, wear lightweight gloves to protect the hands and a sun-proofed scarf to protect the chest. Any time something looks suspicious, don’t wait to get it checked. It is worth that extra doctor’s visit to be on the safe side.
Shoes remain one of the most important aspects of fashion. The perfect shoe can create an image of professionalism, affluence, the personality within, or just plain height. And women in particular are more willing to pay for ‟the right look” not only with their credit cards but with the comfort of their feet.
This, however, can cause long-term pain in the feet, knees, and back which then leads to discomfort when standing and walking. Heels challenge the body’s ability to balance and all of the muscles of the legs must work to stabilize the ankle. Walking is split into two phases. The swinging phase and stance phase. Any shoe that inhibits the weight from falling where it should can lead to pain. High heels are a major culprit of this because both ‟push-off” and ‟heel-strike” happen mainly on the ball of the foot with little or no support at the ankle. Even those cute little flats, mules, or sandals that don’t offer support to the ligaments of the arch, toe joints, or ankle will throw off the rhythm of your natural gait.
Bunions, hammer toes, and pump-bump (that bony enlargement at the back of the heel bone) can make even the prettiest of shoes lose their luster and let’s face it, when your feet hurt the whole body hurts. So what can we do because we know Manolo Blahnik is not going out of business any time soon?!
First off, buy shoes that are the right size. There is no shame in a size 11 except when it is crammed into a size 8 and there are toes falling over the front edge. Trying on shoes after a full day is best because your feet are already hot and swollen. This will give you a much more realistic idea of how those shoes will feel long-term. (The only ‟breaking-in” will be happening inside of your foot, not the shoe.) And try to look for 2 to 2 1\2 inch heels. This is about the difference of when we stand on our toes therefore our body can still find it’s center of balance. Wearing those spiky, pointy numbers for as little time as possible with down time in between is best.
If you know a pair of shoes becomes uncomfortable after a few hours, have back-up. It seems quite customary now for flatter shoes to be worn at weddings after the main ceremony is over and the eating and dancing has started. I think this is a great idea. And to make dressy heels more comfortable, invest in foot accessories that cushion body weight inside the shoe.
When you get home and can finally give your tired feet some attention, sit down, take off your shoes and swing your ankles in slow circles. Gently massage your arches and Achilles tendons on both feet.
A foot soak is a great idea. (See recipes below.) Start with cool water for about 10 minutes. This will diminish any swelling and discomfort. Then add hot for another ten. Follow that with more circular stretches. Then reward yourself with a light layer of any foot cream with Eucalyptus, Peppermint, Bayberry, or Juniper. Aaaaah!
A full hour of reflexology will directly access the ligaments and tendons in the foot and will help to send a message of healing to other parts of the body, like the lower back. Regular pedicures are also essential. Keeping the nails short makes a big difference to how a shoe fits.
Foot soak recipes:
Fill a bowl with enough hot water to cover both feet to ankle height. Add ½ cup Epsom salts and 1 cup of Baking soda then select one of these three recipes according to your needs. Add about 10 drops of oil collectively to each soak.
For Aching feet:
4x drops of chamomile
4x drops of lavender and 2x drops of peppermint.
For Foot warming:
5x drops of rosemary
3x drops of clove bud and 2x drops of ginger.
For Cooling swollen feet:
6x drops of peppermint
Ix drop of rosemary and 3x drops eucalyptus.
So, yes, wear those gold lamé sling backs with the singular sequined strap around the big toe and the lime-green fur along the insole. But also remember to take care of yourself before and after. That way when you say that your dogs are barking, you’ll be talking about the one’s in your backyard!
We are all familiar with commercials that show startlingly beautiful models with perfect bodies and flawless skin. Most of the time we are aware these images promote an unattainable standard of beauty but there is danger in the representation that this is the only type of beauty that is desirable. Dangerous because for all women – young and old – this can seriously affect their self esteem and unrealistic because there is no preordained standard of beauty, especially the cookie cutter version of the commercial world. In reality, beauty is everywhere. It is diverse, interesting and individual and an essential part of our humanity.
At SkinSense, this beauty starts with the skin. The skin is the backdrop, canvas and stage on which all our features and our body image are projected. We also appreciate that when we are counseling a client it is important to create a safe and comfortable environment for sharing concerns and expectations. We are all our own worst critics and our role as skin care professionals is to listen before we start coming up with solutions and recommendations. With the advent of social media we are all even more aware of how we look. In fact according to the American Academy of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, increased photo-sharing has resulted in a higher demand for rhinoplasty, hair transplants and eye surgery, also injectables and Botox.
At SkinSense, we work with doctors who we can confidently refer to when clients ask about these procedures but equally as important, we offer extensive customized facials and body treatments that utilize the latest in electrotherapy and cosmetic chemistry that guarantee results for every skin condition without causing trauma or using extreme measures.
In 1900, the average life expectancy of a woman was 48 years and a man, 46 years. Currently, the average life expectancy of a woman is 78 years and a man 75 years. My point being we are all living a lot longer and need to maintain our skins to stay youthful, competitive in the work place and in society. This is not vanity. It is a healthy choice. People notice good skin – it exhibits confidence, well-being and self acceptance. Our form of photoshop takes longer but it is sustainable. It celebrates the authentic self and that is beautiful. It also guarantees great selfies!
As we all know, oxygen is essential for life. It makes up about 20% of the air we breathe, depending on where we live. It is important when discussing skincare treatments to differentiate between oxygen entering the body through respiration versus the benefits of topically applied oxygen. When applied in too large amounts to the skin, oxygen can have a detrimental effect and produce free radicals.
At SkinSense, however, we use a controlled and measured delivery system that enhances penetration without forming free radicals. This solid state oxygen treatment uses no hydrogen peroxide or gas wands and all the activity is generated by enzyme action which suits a wide variety of skin conditions.
Here are the main benefits of oxygen facials:
Stimulation of cellular activity which reduces the appearance of fine lines by increasing metabolic function. Reduction of redness and bacterial activity associated with Rosacea.
Leaves the skin calm and even.
Soothes inflamed skin and acne.
Provides a calming follow-up treatment after laser, acid peels and microdermabrasion.
Increases the absorption of active ingredients applied after treatment. Improves the appearance of scarring and lightens sun damage.
Tightens the skin surface and leaves the skin glowing and refreshed.
Oxygen facials can be performed as regularly as once a week, but the results are evident after just one treatment. In other words, oxygen facials are the equivalent to a brisk mountain walk in clean, fresh air. Living in Los Angeles that provides all of us a welcome opportunity to have a continually healthy and radiant complexion.
We are currently experiencing the driest year on record and that means extra dry skin on both our face and body. So what can we do to stop the shedding, itching and tightness that goes along with this condition?
Of course, getting regular hydrating facials every month is an absolute must and while visiting the spa, ask your facialist about implementing the following at home.
Face, neck and decollete:
Use an essential oil blend three times a week. Rose, Roman chamomile, lavender, geranium, carrot seed, sandalwood and grape-seed oils are very soothing. Select two or three to make an excellent night-time blend. You can apply a night crème on top or simply let the oil do its job while you sleep. And talking of night-time moisturizers, use a heavier formula if your skin still feels dry.
During the day, apply a serum and moisturizer under your sunscreen. Yes, even in the winter months we still need that SPF 30. Slather on lip balm and make sure you apply your eye crème day and night.
Twice a week, give yourself an extra soothing and hydrating mask. This can be done in the morning or at night, whichever fits into your daily schedule and if you haven’t invested in the Clarisonic brush yet, now is the time. Not only is it a great exfoliator but it also tightens and firms the skin with regular use. Using a humidifier at night while you sleep can be especially helpful to add moisture to the air and can often offer relief from sinus problems and allergies, a better solution to taking anti-histamines which can dehydrate the skin.
Body care:
Body butters are great for this time of the year and can be applied morning and night. For an extra foot treat, massage the butter into the feet and wear socks to bed. Your feet will be baby soft by morning.
Holiday Break-outs:
If you have the opposite problem of oily skin and breakouts read my post on “Holiday Breakouts” for some helpful tips to keep the skin under control during the festive season.
Drink plenty of fluids – warm tea and water – and include flax or fish oils with your supplements. Hydrating from the inside out is vital to combat dryness.
Happy Holidays one and all!
Many of you have read my previous blogs about the latest in skincare ingredients. Here is another interesting breakthrough that we are already using at Skin Sense. As with many discoveries, scientists trying to understand and solve one mystery often happen upon a possible solution for another. Many of us have watched the movie “Benjamin Button” and outside of Hollywood have seen the sad images of tiny children who grow old way before their time. This is because of a rare disease called Hutchinson-Gilford progeria syndrome. Patients develop age-related disorders and diseases when still very young that shortens their life span to no more than twenty years in most cases. It affects only a handful of children worldwide and I am sure that the scientists who are working tirelessly to understand and help those who suffer from this terrible affliction are somewhat surprised to find the beauty industry calling it the new answer to anti-aging.
However, that is exactly what has happened. This genetic mutation creates a toxic protein called progerin that prevents cells from renewing properly. In 2007, the US National Institute of Health also discovered that progerin was present in healthy skin and fat cells. And as we age, it increases by 3% every year!
What does all this mean?
Aging skin recycles itself more slowly with time. Progerin, it has been discovered, can contribute to this process by slowing the skin’s production of collagen and hyaluronic acid – both important components in keeping our skin youthful. Sun exposure also increases the amount of progerin in our cells. No surprise there. So how do we reduce or even remove this demon?
We have two exciting new formulas from Guinot that can help. Creme Riche Fermete Lift and Creme Lift 777 both contain an ingredient called Actiprogerin which claims to limit the production of progerin at a cellular level. The research is still very new but Guinot rarely includes a new ingredient in their products without seriously considering the benefits. Ask for a sample on your next spa visit. We would love to get your feedback.
